360 West June 2014 : Page 96

Dining Out kenzo Tran’s version of street food includes a ramped up pho, left, and his take on dim sum, below. Photos courtesy of Pho District Pho District Saigon native Kenzo Tran turned heads when he opened his first Piranha Killer Sushi in north Arlington 13 years ago. His fresh view of Japanese and other Asian recipes gave diners new ideas about Pacific Rim cuisine, and his impressive reach extended to Fort Worth, Flower Mound, Austin and San Antonio. Now Kenzo turns his attention to Fort Worth’s So7, where — after two years of planning and research — he debuts Pho District mid-month, serving interpretations of the Vietnamese street food he has loved since childhood. Look for Vietnamese favorites, such as pho, to be ramped up Kenzo-style, with sliced choice filet mignon and red chiles; a vermicelli bowl, topped with crispy salmon and his open-ended Hanoian spring rolls; and bahn mi, augmented with chicken liver paté. Other offerings include caramelized pork belly with pickled mustard greens over tofu; chicken roti, a frenched chicken quarter that’s soaked in a five-spice marinade, cooked sous vide and quickly fried; and an untraditional dim sum, combining minced chicken, shrimp and wood ear mushroom, wrapped in rice paper and served steaming in its bamboo basket. Vietnamese beers will star on the beverage menu, likely to be popular on the 40-seat patio spanning the front of the building, facing Trinity Park. Below the stairs leading to Pho District’s upper level, the open kitchen is bordered by an eight-seat counter on one side, where diners watch four cooking lines at work. There’s room for 100 guests inside, where bold colors dominate the modern decor. 2401 W. 7th St., Suite 117, Fort Worth; phodistrict.com or facebook.com/PhoDistrictVietnameseStreetFood. Our favorite spot is the cozy corner with its tufted walls. Redefined Coffee House Grapevine’s newest coffee shop is a treat for the senses. Jorik and Cat Blom — after extensive training from the owners of Fort Worth’s Avoca Coffee — turn out consistently good cups of java (using Avoca’s beans). The menu includes specialties such as a salted caramel latte, cold concoctions and hand-shaken ice teas. Jorik, a former bartender by way of South Africa and California, seems perfectly content to be working the espresso machine rather than pulling tap handles. There are a few snacks: cupcakes from Colleyville’s LeSara Cupcake Bar, including vegan and gluten-free varieties, and pre-packaged soba noodles from a local chef. The interior — completely made over since its days as overflow space for the tavern next-door — is inviting, with industrial-chic decor, dark walls and comfortable seating. There are plenty of plugs for electronics and a couple of tables for those who need to spread out. The surprise is a cozy elevated space in the back, complete with tufted fabric wall, round table and curtains for privacy. The space already has been used Looking for something cold and for small parties. Oh, yeah, and did we mention that one of the owners is sweet? Ask for the Jake Hamilton. Photos by Jeremy Enlow Kenyon Coleman, the former Dallas Cowboys player? He and Daniel Molina are partners in ReDefined, and Kenyon’s wife oversaw the interior design. 220 N. Main St., Grapevine; 817-488-2828. Follow them on Facebook at Redefined Coffee House. IN THE WORkS 24 Plates It’s been slow going for this much-anticipated Magnolia May restaurant, but June looks to be the lucky month. We’re glad the weather has warmed up, as the back patio designed by Konstrukcio Studio looks amazing, with its horizontal-wood slatted walls and bar. Wood accent walls crafted by Fort Worth’s PalletSmart add to the contemporary but rustic feel inside, where a former flower shop and one-time Mexican restaurant are now one space. We are a bit jazzed about chef Beau Johnson’s 24-plates menu: Dinner is divided into small plates (akaushi beef meatballs, roasted kale sprouts, bacon-wrapped stuffed dates) and large ones (dry-aged pork belly with chimichurri, lobster roll, sea scallops with a saffron beurre blanc) and dessert. The lunch menu is designed for a faster turnaround, with a select dinner-menu items along with sandwiches, flatbreads and salads. Brunch will include stuffed French toast; breakfast nachos; and an intriguing house bacon board with five types of bacon served with toast points, sweet onion jam, red pepper jelly and cornichons. 407 W. Magnolia Ave., Fort Worth; 817-840-7670 or 24platesfw.com. Rafain Brazilian Steakhouse Dallas-based Rafain Brazilian Steakhouse takes over the former Patrizio’s location in Fort Worth’s West 7 th development with a meat-centric concept that features an all-inclusive fixe prixe menu. Expect an extensive salad bar, a choice of 17 cuts of meats and a dessert table, all for one price. Lunch will run about $25; dinner about $45. They hope to add a retractable cover to the patio. 2932 Crockett St.; 817-862-9800 or rafain.com. East Hampton Sandwich Co. The Dallas-based sandwich shop heads to Fort Worth’s WestBend shopping center (across the street from University Park Village). With popular locations in Dallas’ Snider Plaza and Shops at Legacy in Plano, the casual restaurant serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. At breakfast, look for fried chicken and honey on an English muffin and Hampton’s Donut Bag. Among the specialty sandwiches are such offerings as a balsamic tenderloin; lobster roll; and goat cheese, avocado and spring mix with red pepper aioli. There also are seasonal soups and salads, and wine and beer will be served. Check them out at ehsandwich.com. 96 June 2014 360westmagazine.com

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