360 West October 2012 : Page 77

MILESTONES Happy birthday, Weinberger’s Deli When you bite into an Italian beef sandwich at this little restaurant in Grapevine, you’re not just getting slow-roasted beef heated in savory au jus and topped with the crunchy, spicy snap of Italian giardiniera. You’re getting decades of family experience in Chicago coupled with Dan Weinberger’s passion for the sandwich — a combination that has him celebrating 10 years John Ley’s Green Beret, a in the Texas suburbs this month. vegeterian sandwich, Even the order of assembly is is named in honor crucial to Weinberger, who says of a decorated the dressings on a Reuben, for Vietnam veteran. example, should be spread on the meat, not the bread. When the former statistician decided to try his hand at the family business — one of his dad’s Chicago delis was open from 1952 to 1998 ·OLH[ÄYZ[VMMLYLK[YHKP[PVUHSKLSPMHYL
 lox and cream cheese. The suburbanites were not interested. But they liked his sandwiches. So Weinberger made those the focus, though he still sells matzo ball soup during cold spells and sneaks lox into a sandwich with cream cheese, tomato, capers and spring mix. The hands-down favorite, though, is Weinberger’s Italian beef — he slow-roasts 450 pounds a week of inside round seasoned with garlic, red pepper, black pepper, thyme and oregano. Like many deli meats, he explains, Italian-style beef was born of necessity. The less-fresh, tougher cuts of meat were the least expensive, so home cooks who needed to feed a big family on a small budget used copious seasoning and slow-cooked the roasts for tenderness. The method also produced drippings, the au jus. If Italian beef isn’t your thing, no ^VYYPLZ>LPUILYNLY^PSSÄUKZVTL[OPUN[OH[PZ¸0»SS[OYV^H^H` Ä]LVYZHUK^PJOLZ[VÄUK[OLVUL`V\JHU»[SP]L^P[OV\[ And you’re mine for life.” Besides the Grapevine location, there are Weinberger’s delis in Denton and Westlake, and another is in the works for Keller. 601 S. Main St., Grapevine; 817-416-5577 or weinbergersdeli.com. — Judy Wiley DALLAS Can you say hot ticket? FT33 already the talk of the town FT33, JOLM4H[[4J*HSSPZ[LY»ZÄYZ[ZVSVYLZ[H\YHU[ venture, opens this month in the up-and-coming Design District. It’s a deliciously comfortable venue with just 33 tables, an ever-changing menu and former GRACE sommelier Ryan Tedder in charge of the dining room and wine cellar. Pastry chef Joshua Valentine can be seen on Top Chef Seattle , premiering in November. “I loved GRACE,” says Tedder, “but this was a chance to build a restaurant and a wine list from scratch.” Tedder says the tightly curated list has just a fraction of the wines in the Fort Worth restaurant’s cellar, but Matt McAllister is as comfortable in the garden “though we DQGÀHOGDVKHLVWKHNLWFKHQ may only have Photos by Kevin Marple one Vouvray or assyrtiko producer, they’ll be the best bottles of Vouvray or assyrtiko H[[OLILZ[WYPJL`V\»SSÄUKPU+HSSHZ¹4J*HSSPZ[LYPZHMHUH[PJ about details that matter: pristine ingredients (many he’s foraged OPTZLSM

HUK^HSSVWZVMÅH]VYPUL]LY` bite. He’s calling FT33’s approach “seasonally inspired modern J\PZPUL
NYHZZ fed Texas rib-eye steaks rubbed with porcini mushroom “dust,” and creamy mashed potatoes enriched with vanilla and lemon, but also Ryan Tedder takes his considerable wine skills to FT33. charred octopus with braised bitter greens, cashew miso and bacon. “I’m taking my cues from everywhere HUKL]LY`[OPUN
^OVÄYZ[NHPULK acclaim as executive chef at Stephan Pyles’ namesake restaurant. “I want to serve the kind of food no one FT33’s beef duo with vanilla-lemon potato, else is doing in Dallas.” 1617 Hi Line Drive, Suite 250, porcini and watercress Dallas; 214-741-2629 or ft33dallas.com. ‹:[HTWLKL&#1d;&#1d; Speaking of Stephan Pyles, the celebrated chef reinvents himself yet again this month with the debut of this splashy new restaurant in Uptown. The restaurant takes its name from a mash-up of landmarks from Pyles’ West Texas childhood: The Stampede, a dance hall, and the Phillips 66 truck-stop cafe that his family operated. Stampede 66’s menu romps all over Texas, a collection of reinterpreted classic dishes and native ingredients starring Texas farm birds (dove, quail, chicken), meat and game (wild boar, Akaushi beef, venison), Gulf seafood and local produce. Even the tacos and tamales will be showstoppers, their corn masa made from nixtamal ground in-house. Says Pyles, “Stampede is all about the details.” Shawn Horne, most recently at Monty’s Corner in Fort Worth’s Montgomery Plaza, is Stampede’s general manager. “Shawn started his career with me at Star Canyon [an early Pyles restaurant in Dallas], so this is a reunion for us.” 1700 Cedar Springs Road, Dallas. ‹,TWVYP\T7PLZ ¸-PULWPLZMVYÄULMVSR¹PZOV^V^ULYZHUKJVSSLNLMYPLUKZ4LNHU>PSRLZHUK Mary Sparks (formerly Mary Gauntt) tout the casual, hip pie shop they’ve opened in a converted 1930s-era Victorian-style house in the Bishop Arts District in Oak Cliff. Sparks, the baker, makes the dough, while Wilkes, the more business-minded of the two, counts it. The pie lineup will change seasonally, but the current rotation of seven selections includes pumpkin, apple-cranberry and Sparks’ favorite, the “Drunken Nut,” a bourbon pecan pie made with a shortbread crust. All of the pies are handmade from scratch and sold by the slice ($5) or whole (mostly $30). 314 N. Bishop Ave., Dallas; 469-206-6126 or emporiumpies.com. — Michael Hiller Dan Weinberger’s passion for sandwiches shows in his carefully assembled creations Photos by Ralph Lauer www.360westmagazine.com October 2012 77

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